I leave Nepal, well not exactly Nepal as I will need to drive for at least two days before I reach the border but I am leaving Pokhara which is probably the last place where I can have a steak before getting back to Israel in 4 months time. But I have bought a few tins of "luf" to eat along the way and I should survive. In addition, for those of South African descent, I found the local "biltong" and except for being a bit hotter than I'm used to it is fine, much better than beef jerky as found in the USA or the Far East, I bought 750 grams and that may last me for a couple of days on the road.
After Katmandu, remember Katmandu? I rode to Chitwan Nature Reserve which specialises in Rhinos and I have never really seen a live rhino in the wild close up. I left Katmandu with Noam, Elad, Tomer and Kobi whose bikes were more loaded than an Indian - they have evrything with them, a stereo, cooking equipment, matresses, a tool box, an electric kettle and a juice mixer and other home comforts and ameneties to numerous to mention. They are unbelievably well organized and the way they load up in less than 8 hours is truely amazing and I'm not sure how they can ride even though I saw it with my own eyes. We drove all day but didnt get very far as travelling in convoy means often waiting for some one with a problem, idea or excellent photo op. It was great fun however and after spending the night in Narayanghat (an incredibly long name for a dust covered nothing town but that is what one finds all over India and Nepal) we split up (after a great photo op) with them heading for India, despite my please for them to join me and me heading
for Chitwan alone.
On the way to Chitwan I met Amichai and Adi and spent time with them when I was not chasing animals. In chitwan I had a ball if though it is not quite up to the standard of the Kruger it is much better than Thekkkadi (sorry, Paula). I arrived at about 3pm and immediately after checking into my not outstanding but adequate guest house - if you are going to Chitwan go to the Parkside , it is exquisite, not like the Eden where I was - I took a guide and went of to the area called 20000 lakes (I saw one) and driving along on my bike I saw several spotted deer and a huge fucking rhino grazing happily 20 meters away - fortunately there was a river between us.
The next morning I drove out to the Elephant Breeding Center which was an amazing experience, you get to interact with the babies (baby bulldozers) without a fence between you and them. I fed them special elephant biscuits and got pushed lightly - for a baby elephant - when they wanted more - it was great fun and I came away with a really good feeling, From there I wandered down to the river bank and there were elephants and people frolicking in the river together. I determined to do that but didnt have time before my jeep safari on which I saw another rhino, a baby, he was quite far away and all we saw was the top of his back but it was great fun and I was not disappointed (as I was in Thekkadi but overcame). I booked an elephant safari for the next morning and while riding on their backs is not very comfortable (not at all like the pictures you see of people on elephant back during the time of the Raj, I did see another 4 rhinos very, very close up and my needs were satisfied. During the safari we stopped somewhere and the mahout (elephant driver) got off, the elephant then picked up a stick and used it to scratch her head - I was amazed because I've never heard of elephants, or any other animals besides primates, using tools.
After the safari I went down to the river and bathed with the elephant and it was fun! To get onto her back I first had to climb onto her head and she didn't flinch despite my nearly 90 kgs. First she gave me a shower as I was sitting on her back and then she got down on her knees and rolled over into the water spilling me off. I then helped the mahout wash her and had as much fun as any 7 year old. It made up for what I had missed when I didnt take the opportunity to bathe with an elephant which I'd missed on my way back from Kunyakumari in January (I may or may not have written about it).
At about 1pm I left Chitwan with Adi on the pillion and I lost something off the bike for the first time - just a little backpack (Jason's, actually, which I had taken from Paula but there was nothing important in it so no worries mate!). I have been in Pokhara now for 5 nights and eaten about 7 steaks and it is time to leave - I am NOT trekking - and tomorrow I am heading off for India again - a place called Kasar devi about 800 kms from here. Pokhara has been lovely, great weather, great food, great company and great scenery even though the clouds have not bothered to move since I got here and I can't see the snow-covered Annapurna range.
My next letter will be from India again.
After Katmandu, remember Katmandu? I rode to Chitwan Nature Reserve which specialises in Rhinos and I have never really seen a live rhino in the wild close up. I left Katmandu with Noam, Elad, Tomer and Kobi whose bikes were more loaded than an Indian - they have evrything with them, a stereo, cooking equipment, matresses, a tool box, an electric kettle and a juice mixer and other home comforts and ameneties to numerous to mention. They are unbelievably well organized and the way they load up in less than 8 hours is truely amazing and I'm not sure how they can ride even though I saw it with my own eyes. We drove all day but didnt get very far as travelling in convoy means often waiting for some one with a problem, idea or excellent photo op. It was great fun however and after spending the night in Narayanghat (an incredibly long name for a dust covered nothing town but that is what one finds all over India and Nepal) we split up (after a great photo op) with them heading for India, despite my please for them to join me and me heading
for Chitwan alone.
On the way to Chitwan I met Amichai and Adi and spent time with them when I was not chasing animals. In chitwan I had a ball if though it is not quite up to the standard of the Kruger it is much better than Thekkkadi (sorry, Paula). I arrived at about 3pm and immediately after checking into my not outstanding but adequate guest house - if you are going to Chitwan go to the Parkside , it is exquisite, not like the Eden where I was - I took a guide and went of to the area called 20000 lakes (I saw one) and driving along on my bike I saw several spotted deer and a huge fucking rhino grazing happily 20 meters away - fortunately there was a river between us.
The next morning I drove out to the Elephant Breeding Center which was an amazing experience, you get to interact with the babies (baby bulldozers) without a fence between you and them. I fed them special elephant biscuits and got pushed lightly - for a baby elephant - when they wanted more - it was great fun and I came away with a really good feeling, From there I wandered down to the river bank and there were elephants and people frolicking in the river together. I determined to do that but didnt have time before my jeep safari on which I saw another rhino, a baby, he was quite far away and all we saw was the top of his back but it was great fun and I was not disappointed (as I was in Thekkadi but overcame). I booked an elephant safari for the next morning and while riding on their backs is not very comfortable (not at all like the pictures you see of people on elephant back during the time of the Raj, I did see another 4 rhinos very, very close up and my needs were satisfied. During the safari we stopped somewhere and the mahout (elephant driver) got off, the elephant then picked up a stick and used it to scratch her head - I was amazed because I've never heard of elephants, or any other animals besides primates, using tools.
After the safari I went down to the river and bathed with the elephant and it was fun! To get onto her back I first had to climb onto her head and she didn't flinch despite my nearly 90 kgs. First she gave me a shower as I was sitting on her back and then she got down on her knees and rolled over into the water spilling me off. I then helped the mahout wash her and had as much fun as any 7 year old. It made up for what I had missed when I didnt take the opportunity to bathe with an elephant which I'd missed on my way back from Kunyakumari in January (I may or may not have written about it).
At about 1pm I left Chitwan with Adi on the pillion and I lost something off the bike for the first time - just a little backpack (Jason's, actually, which I had taken from Paula but there was nothing important in it so no worries mate!). I have been in Pokhara now for 5 nights and eaten about 7 steaks and it is time to leave - I am NOT trekking - and tomorrow I am heading off for India again - a place called Kasar devi about 800 kms from here. Pokhara has been lovely, great weather, great food, great company and great scenery even though the clouds have not bothered to move since I got here and I can't see the snow-covered Annapurna range.
My next letter will be from India again.
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